+49 9571 9400 117 info@pet-interiors.com

A cat moves in – the best tips for settling in

The time has finally come: a cat is moving in. You can look forward to some intense and exciting weeks. Whether it’s a kitten or an old cat, a pedigree cat from a breeder or from animal welfare, the new family member will take your heart and your home together by storm.
It is difficult to give precise instructions on how to acclimatize a cat. There are great settling-in tips on how to prepare for the arrival of a kitten. With our experience, the settling-in phase will go smoothly.

A cat moves in - the best tips for settling in

3 little Kittens in Credo Cat Basket

How old should the cat be when it moves in?

In order to experience good socialization, a kitten should live with its mother and siblings for at least 12 weeks. Researchers at the University of Helsinki have found that cats should live with their mother and siblings for the first 13 weeks. Then they develop into friendlier creatures with fewer behavioral problems. It therefore pays to wait patiently for the cat to move in.
However, the separation from mother and siblings should not be underestimated. The separation is not easy for the young kitten and the mother. To give the kitten some comfort in its new home, it is advisable to prepare a blanket that smells of its mother and siblings. You can bring the blanket together with the mother and siblings for some time so that the scent is transferred. The blanket will help to calm the little kitten in its new home. If possible, adopt two kittens from the same litter. This makes separation easier and most cats love to live with a conspecific.
Conversely, it is a good idea to introduce the cat to your scent before you move in. You can bring the breeder or the owner of the mother cat one of your items of clothing. This will help the kitten get used to your smell.

A cat is moving in: How do I get them used to their new home?

Whether a kitten or an older animal, a cat moving in is exciting for every age group. You can prepare a few things so that the many new impressions don’t overwhelm the cat when it moves in. If possible, prepare a room (not a transit room) in which the new resident can acclimatize alone. Ideally, secure the entrance to the room with a puppy fence or net. After moving in, the cat can observe what is going on without having to leave the room. The cat’s room should have everything the new arrival needs. A litter tray, a cat basket, a scratching area and food and water will be needed when the cat moves in.
As soon as you arrive home with your cat, leave the transport box open in the cat’s room. Ideally, the room should not offer too many hiding places. Leave it up to the kitten to decide when it wants to leave the box. If the new family member still hasn’t ventured out after several hours, you should help. Lure the animal out with a treat or toy. However difficult it may be, give the kitten time. The kitten first has to get used to the new noises, smells and impressions. Cats are curious and will soon explore the room on their own and seek contact with the other housemates. With these settling-in tips, the move in will go smoothly.

How long does it take for a kitten to settle in?

Let the new roommate set the pace. First he has to get used to the unknown people and the unfamiliar surroundings. It is not easy to interpret and assess the new impressions correctly. As soon as the kitten feels safe and secure in the cat room, it will want to explore the rest of the house. Cats also have very different characters. Some are more alert, while other kittens are not so brash. You can be sure that you will soon wish you had a shy representative in the house rather than the extroverted explorer it may have become.
Do not pick up or hold the kitten against its will. Wait patiently for the moment when it comes to you on its own. We are still not allowed to pick up our Gisela after 8 years together. She hates it and doesn’t want to be carried around at all. She comes for cuddles very often, but only when she wants to. Always at the wrong time, of course. And what does the cat lover do then? He takes the time to look after her, of course.
Surround your new arrival with as many things as possible that he knows from his old home. The blanket that smells of his mother and siblings, the same familiar food and cat litter. Do you want to make changes? Do this carefully and only when the cat has already settled in.

A cat moves in: How do I get two cats used to each other?

If the new roommate will be part of a cat community, it makes sense to prepare the existing pack for the arrival of the new member of the same species in good time:

Bring along a sample of the new cat’s scent (blanket, cloth, cushion) so that the animals already living in the household can get used to the new arrival’s scent.
As soon as all the animals in the household have arrived, take turns stroking both animals. Do not wash your hands in between so that the cats’ scents mix.
The room where the first cat prefers to spend time should not be the new cat’s arrival room. The animals should be able to sniff each other first through the puppy gate or partition. Separation also prevents the new arrival from unknowingly entering the territory of the cat already living in the household.
Place the two cats’ food bowls opposite each other, separated by the barrier. This will give the “foreign” smell of the food a positive imprint.
Please pay particular attention to the first cat during the arrival period to avoid jealousy.
If the reunion is imminent, it is important that you are in the same room. If the situation gets out of hand, you can intervene if necessary.

A cat is moving in: What accessories are needed?

Cat litter tray

Normally there should always be one more litter tray than there are cats in the household. It’s best to let the cat decide whether it should be a toilet with a lid or not. Some animals love a cave, which also has the advantage that the smell stays in the toilet. Other cats, however, need the free space above them.
In any case, the lower bowl of the toilet should be relatively high. The litter can be poured in generously and there is still enough space at the top. Because if the cat buries its droppings with passion, not so much litter flies over the edge of the toilet.
There are also different preferences when it comes to litter. Try out what your house cat likes best. Gisela prefers fine clumping litter. When we buy it, we make sure that it does not contain any fragrance additives. We can’t imagine that this strong scent is pleasant for cats’ noses. A carpet under the toilet that picks up the crumbs from the paws has also proved its worth. This way, the cat litter pellets are not carried around the whole apartment.

Scratching post

It doesn’t necessarily have to be a complete scratching post. It is enough if you offer your kitten a surface to scratch on. Whether sisal, needle felt or something similar, you should also test out your cat’s preferences here. The cat will use the scratching surface provided for it if it is comfortable for it. Our first cat, Mrs. Schmitt, preferred needle felt and scratched on nothing else, Gisela only sharpens her claws on sisal.

Sleeping place for the cat

We now know that cats are individualists. Whether a cuddly cave, a cat house or a cat basket is the chosen place to sleep, cats prefer to choose it themselves. Observe the kitten for a while. You will recognize whether it prefers to sleep in seclusion and quietly or at a lofty height with an overview. For a relaxed nap, a cozy cave or a hollow in the pillow may also be an option. Our Gisela is showered with places to sleep and has to work hard for her food as a prototype tester. No matter where we are in the house, she always sleeps near us. In the office alone, she has three pillows and baskets, all of which she sleeps on equally. Of course, this is not necessary for your cat, but it shows that there is not just one favorite place.

Feeding and drinking bowl

For our Gisela, two feeding bowls have proved their worth. One for wet food, which is fed at a certain time of day. A fumble box for dry food, in which food is available throughout the day. However, Gisela has to use skill and patience to get the individual treats out of the fumble box. This keeps her mentally fit, food is not automatically available and has to be worked for.
Place several water bowls in different places, but none next to the food bowl. Cats tend to drink very little. When they feel thirsty, they will prefer to eat rather than quench their thirst. You will be surprised which watering places they prefer.

Transport box

To transport your kitten safely, you need a transport box. It’s up to you whether you want it with the opening facing upwards or forwards.

Food adapted to age

There is food to suit every age. I cook wet food for our Gisela myself and freeze it in portions. She loves it. We buy very different dry food so that she doesn’t get used to one taste. Is the kitten still so small that it can’t cope with the bowl? That’s because it hasn’t figured out the head-bobbing trick yet. You can start feeding with a spoon. Slowly lower the spoon towards the bowl until it is able to eat from the bowl on its own. A small kitten initially needs four to five smaller meals. We have found that cats do not need a feeding time. Dry food, which she has to work for, is always available. Gisela gets wet food once or twice a day. This prevents food cravings and you personally do not have to be at the bowl at a certain time.

Brush

Not only long-haired cats need regular grooming, short-haired cats also love to be brushed. For one thing, the winter coat comes off more easily in spring and the cat loses significantly less hair. It has also become a wonderful ritual between us, Gisela loves being stroked with the brush. You can find an article on grooming here.

a cat-shaped toy out of wool felt dashes over the smooth floor

little felt cats are dashing over the floor

Toys

It is important to buy or make toys where no parts can come loose and be swallowed by the kitten. Our felt cats are very popular. These run noiselessly over smooth floors and can be maltreated wonderfully.

 

Here you will find useful tips on how to keep your new cat busy.

No Results Found

The page you requested could not be found. Try refining your search, or use the navigation above to locate the post.

Incontinence in dogs – Is my dog incontinent?

If the animal loses urine uncontrollably, this is known as canine incontinence. After sleeping, the dog leaves wet patches on its dog bed and leaks urine, even though it has long been house-trained. The lives of both dog and owner are severely affected and a veterinary diagnosis and treatment is necessary.

DIVAN Uno dog cushion with incontinence cover

What is incontinence in dogs?

An incontinent dog unconsciously leaks urine or faeces. This can happen while standing, walking or sleeping. Depending on how severe the dog’s incontinence is, it can be a few drops of urine or a whole stream. More rarely, incontinence affects faeces. In the most common form of incontinence, the dog loses a few drops of urine at night while sleeping. If the bladder sphincter is relaxed, the dog can no longer control it. This often happens in older female dogs when they no longer produce female sex hormones. However, incontinence can also occur in neutered dogs, due to illness or trauma.
More female dogs are affected than male dogs, as the ureter is much shorter and straighter in female dogs. Large dogs such as Dobermans, Rottweilers, Boxers and Giant Schnauzers are more frequently affected. Sheepdogs, Bernese mountain dogs, dachshunds and spaniels are less frequently affected.

Why is my dog incontinent?

Several reasons can lead to incontinence in dogs. There is age-related incontinence, which is more common in female dogs than male dogs. Castration in dogs is also associated with incontinence. In around 30% of all large, spayed bitches, incontinence occurs on average after 3 to 5 years. In unfavourable cases, incontinence occurs immediately, in favourable cases only after 8 to 10 years. Only 10% of smaller dog breeds are affected by incontinence.
Various diseases such as cystitis, malformations of the ureters or nerve damage can lead to incontinence. To find out the cause reliably, an appointment with the vet is essential.

Diagnosis and treatment of incontinence in dogs

If there is a disease causing the incontinence, it must be treated without fail. Malformations in the urethra, bladder stones or a tumour in the bladder are serious conditions that may require surgical intervention.
Dogs that become incontinent due to castration can be treated well and successfully with appropriate medication. These drugs increase the muscle tension in the urethra and support urethral closure.
Homeopathic therapy can help and nutritional supplements such as pumpkin seeds or cranberries can have a positive effect.

Can incontinence in dogs be prevented?

Basically not. It is assumed that there is less urinary leakage due to castration if only the ovaries are removed and the uterus remains in the dog.

Tips for living with an incontinent dog.

It is not in a dog’s nature to soil its living area. House-trained animals suffer psychologically from their incontinence. Dogs have fine noses and they hate smelling their urine. It is very important to react with understanding. As the dog is not leaking urine on purpose, it must not be punished for it under any circumstances.

Wearing nappies from time to time can be a way of making everyday life easier. Unfortunately, it is not advisable to wear nappies permanently, as this can irritate the dog’s skin and coat.

To prevent unpleasant odours from forming in the house, it is helpful to clean all floors regularly. Also wash the dog bed at short intervals. The dog beds from pet-interiors are all washable and suitable for tumble drying. We have developed matching incontinence covers for all our dog cushions to make it easier for you to live with your four-legged friend.

The incontinence cover from pet-interiors keeps the dog bed clean

Poison bait – a deadly danger for our dogs

The most important rule is:

Even if there is only the slightest suspicion, do not hesitate and take your dog to the vet immediately.
your dog to the vet immediately. Because if your four-legged friend has really swallowed a poisoned bait, this can cause the first signs of poisoning within a very short time.

The first signs of poisoning can be
– vomiting
– excessive panting
– white salivation
– pale mucous membranes
– altered pupils
– listlessness

Unfortunately, the signs are not always immediately noticeable and much depends on the type of poisonous bait.

Rat poison

The disastrous thing about rat poison is that the first signs may only appear after a few days. Typical signs of poisoning with rat poison are vomiting, tiredness, bloody diarrhoea and a low body temperature. 2-3 days after ingestion of the rat poison, bleeding occurs on mucous membranes and from body orifices and the dog usually dies of organ failure within 3-5 days.

Insecticide slug pellets

Insecticide slug pellets are also often used to poison baits. It works much faster than rat poison and the first symptoms of poisoning can occur after just 30 minutes. Please consult a vet as soon as possible. As soon as the poison has entered the bloodstream, the vet can only provide symptomatic treatment. The perfidious thing about slug pellets is their sweet flavour, which is why dogs and cats like to eat them.

Narcotics

As dog haters will use anything they deem useful for their purposes, baits can also be laced with anaesthetics. If your pet has swallowed one of these baits, signs such as loss of consciousness or staggering will occur within a very short time.

Bait spiked with sharp-edged objects.

If your pet has eaten a bait spiked with nails, razor blades or metal spikes, you will often notice blood in your pet’s mouth. In this case, too, you should make your way to the vet as quickly as possible and, if possible, announce the visit on the way.

Do you suspect poisoning?

1. absolutely refrain from self-medicating.
2. call a vet or veterinary clinic immediately and announce the emergency.
3. take your dog for veterinary treatment immediately and without delay.

Do not self-medicate!

You can find lots of first aid tips for poisoning on the Internet, but most of them are hardly practicable and can even be life-threatening. Please do not make your dog vomit under any circumstances, because if he has swallowed sharp-edged or corrosive substances, his condition could worsen considerably.

The administration of activated charcoal may also cost vital time. Charcoal tablets
bind toxins in the body, but the necessary dosage depends on the dog’s body weight.
body weight of the dog.

In an emergency, every second really counts, so contact a vet immediately
vet immediately and give notice so that you can be treated as quickly as possible. Quick and immediate treatment can save your dog’s life.

Please make a note in your telephone:

Address and telephone numbers of neighbouring vets and veterinary clinics.
Even if you are on holiday, this may save your life.

Poison bait also in your private neighbourhood.

Unfortunately, intentional poisoning of dogs and cats also occurs among neighbours. Neighbours may feel disturbed by the barking of dogs. If dog owners allow their four-legged friend to defecate in the neighbour’s driveway or front garden, trouble is inevitable. Unfortunately, the animal perceived as a nuisance is only a poison bait throw over the garden fence away.

How can I prevent my four-legged friend from ingesting poison bait?

More on this in our next blog post: Can I prevent my dog from eating a poison bait?

Which plants are poisonous for my dog? You can find out more here:

Nutrition for large dogs

What should the optimum diet be for large dogs?

Nutrition plays a major role in keeping your pet healthy and lively. Whether small or large dogs and small dogs, food plays a decisive role in your pet’s health. Here you can find out what you should pay attention to so that the diet for large dogs is balanced and healthy and keeps your pet fit and agile.

Here is a selection of large dog breeds:

Bernese Mountain Dog
Saint Bernard
Great Dane
Broholmer
Great Dane
English Mastiff
Irish Wolfhound
Landseer
Leonberger
Kangal
Newfoundland
Pyrenean Mountain Dog
Rottweiler
Scottish Deerhound

The best orthopaedic dog cushions for large dogs that perfectly support the joints and spine can be found at pet-interiors.

Nutrition for large breed puppies.

Adult dogs, whether small or large breeds, need approximately the same nutrients. However, this does not apply to puppies in the growth phase. Large breed puppies have very specific and high nutritional requirements. Large puppies need to gain weight quickly, and their weight increases approximately 100-fold by the time they reach adulthood. In small dog breeds, the difference in weight from birth to adulthood is not so great; they gain about 20 to 30 times as much weight. It is therefore essential to avoid nutritional errors during the growth phase in large dog breeds.

Why do large dogs defecate differently to small dogs?

Large dogs have a proportionally shorter gastrointestinal tract than small dogs, which is why they defecate more often and usually have poorer faecal quality than smaller breeds. Large dogs also release more sodium and water into the large intestine, which increases the water content in their faeces. You can prevent this digestive problem with highly digestible food if you tailor the diet for large dogs perfectly to this.

How should food for large dogs be formulated?

If it is a ready-made food for large dogs from a well-known dog food manufacturer that you trust, the special needs of a large dog should be taken into account. Of course, you can put together the food and treats (you can find the recipe for dog biscuits and dog cookies here) yourself and perfectly customise the diet for large dogs.
Then these easily digestible products should be included: Muscle meat e.g., from beef, pork, sheep, game, plus eggs, dairy products such as quark or cottage cheese, carbohydrates from cooked rice or oatmeal, plus oils or fats. The advantage of homemade dog food is, of course, that you know exactly what is in the food for your large dog. However, it is very important to pay close attention to the composition of the food so that your pet does not suffer any deficiencies.

What are the energy requirements of large dogs?

The energy requirements of large and small dogs are similar. The energy requirement depends more on how active the dog is, the age of the pet and whether it is a long-haired or short-haired dog. Dogs with a thin, short coat with little undercoat need more energy to maintain their body temperature. If the dog has a lot of muscle mass with a low body fat percentage, its energy requirement is also higher.
A very active, agile and lively dog consumes more energy than a calm, comfortable and perhaps older animal. You should definitely take these considerations into account in your diet plan for your large dog.